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Jess Does Jessie’s
Jessica Clegg | August 27, 2007
I passed under the chipper blue and yellow awning of the new takeout-oriented restaurant, Jessie’s Brooklyn Kitchen, with every intention of being a good objective reviewer and ordering two main courses, maybe even an interesting side salad or dessert. My plan was foiled, however, by the $14 plus price tags on all entrees. I couldn’t quite countenance spending 30 bucks to dine alone on my very own fold-out tray table.
Jessie’s food is mostly available for preview behind the glass counter. The salads, including one with sliced plums and sprinkled parmesan, looked like something I could put together after a gourmet market run, so I turned to the hot plates. The entree selection included pork shoulder, meatloaf, crab cakes, most partially or entirely organic. The restaurant also covered its vegetarian bases with polenta and tofu specials. I ordered the Coq Au Vin, braised chicken in wine sauce, mainly because the sides, parmesan polenta and local sweet and sour peas, interested me the most. The chicken was moist, but there just wasn’t enough of it. The one thigh was overwhelmed by the massive pile o’ polenta, kind of a wannabe macaroni and cheese flavored mash; and the pea and onion mixture was mysteriously doused in vinegar. The entire presentation overwhelming reminded me of those dinner platters you can buy at Whole Foods, though for probably half the price. If I were going to splurge on gourmet home cooking style takeout, I would want some twist on the classic, more spice than salt, not reheated versions of what your grandmother used to make.
It should be noted that Jessie’s also has an array of breakfast and lunch options, which I did not try, but are probably more suitable to my budget. The staff was friendly and very flexible about substituting side dishes.
Jessie’s Brooklyn Kitchen is located at 200 Smith St at Wyckoff.
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